Today, I am painting on a 20” x 16” gallery wrapped canvas. This scene will look great on any size. So, use whatever size you want.
Let’s get started.
Best practice: Read through the entire lesson before you begin.
Lesson 1: The Background
Sponge
Ultramarine blue
Light blue
Titanium white
Pick up and flip your canvas on the side so you can easily access the very bottom and finish off the rest of the white.
Let the background dry completely before moving on to clouds. Use a fan to speed up the drying process.
Lesson 2: The Clouds
Sponge, Baby wipe
Neutral gray
Buff white
Titanium white
Add a little bit more titanium white to the same mixture. Apply lightly over the initial cloud shapes. Leave some darker areas for contrast.
Use a baby wipe to blur the edges. Blend areas where colors transition. Add just titanium white to the top of clouds where sunlight hits.
You are ready for the next lesson.
Lesson 3: Distant Cacti
#7 and #8 or #9, #1, #2 or #3 Let’s Dabble Art palette knives, #1 Let’s Dabble Art brush
Phthalo green
Yellow ochre
Burnt sienna
Brilliant purple
Burnt umber
Ultramarine blue
Buff white
Lemon yellow
Gloss gel
Continue with your #1 brush and finish up your Palo Verde Trees. Use a fan-like motion to create the wispy texture of Palo Verde branches. Switch to your #7 palette knife and layer in different shades. To add depth to the Palo Verde trees, create small dots at the branch tips to break up dense areas, for straggler leaves. Then, apply a lighter layer by mixing yellow ochre, buff white, and titanium white. Lightly drag this mixture across the canvas to build soft texture while keeping the underlying layers visible. Since Palo Verde trees can appear more yellow in spring, add a mix of lemon yellow and yellow ochre for extra vibrancy. This technique creates a three-layered effect: a deep base, a mid-tone layer, and bright highlights.
Grab your #1, 2 or #3 palette knife (whichever you’re comfortable with), mix phthalo green, lemon yellow, yellow ochre, brilliant purple and gloss gel. Start clustering small circular shapes together, layering them to build the form. Once the base is in place, add titanium white to the mixture.
You are ready for the next lesson.
Clean your palette knives and brush.
Lesson 4: The Saguaro
#12 and #00 Let’s Dabble Art brushes, 8 or #9 Let’s Dabble Art palette knife
Burnt umber
Burnt sienna
Ultramarine blue
Dark purple
Yellow ochre
Buff white
Lemon yellow
Titanium white
Army green mixture
Layer on lighter tones by adding a mix of yellow ochre, buff white, and lemon yellow on top. Define the ribs by dragging your palette knife vertically and leaving some dark spaces in between. Add burnt sienna to the mixture.
Grab your #00 brush, mix lemon yellow, titanium white, phthalo green and yellow ochre then apply it to the tippy tops of the arms and gently drag downward. Lightly glaze over the ridges to emphasize the natural structure of the cactus.
Optional: Add fun details like birds, owl nests, or small holes where woodpeckers may have pecked.
You are ready for the next lesson.
Clean your brushes and palette knife.
Lesson 5: Red Flowers
#7 Let’s Dabble Art palette knife and #00 Let’s Dabble Art brush
Crimson
Medium red
Cadmium red light
Medium orange
Lemon yellow
Dark purple
Burnt umber
Gloss gel
You are ready for the final lesson.
Clean your palette knife and brush.
Mix medium red, cadmium red light and gloss gel then layer on this brighter reds over the previous darks. Since the stems are visible now, place blossoms strategically off the stems. Use loose strokes to add more texture in the foreground. Clean your palette knife. Mix lemon yellow, medium orange, titanium white and gloss gel. Apply this sparingly to the very tips of blossoms. Small crimson dots on flower buds for detail.
Use the green mixture to lightly add highlights on the top ridges of the saguaro cactus.
For the dirt in the foreground, use the yellow ochre, burnt sienna and titanium white mixture then drag your palette knife across the surface.
Like sky holes in a tree, You take that negative space that you see with the shadows and add highlights between stems. This enhances contrast and cleans up any overly thick lines.
Keep the very edge of the foreground dark. Blend in shadow tones (deep purples and browns).
Name your painting with a unique name. Congratulations, you are almost done. Now it’s time to sign the back. I use a thin black permanent marker.
I put © and my name.
Then I put up my website.
Next, I put the title in all caps and in quotes.
Last, I put my full signature.